The legend has it that the Aeolian archipelago corresponds to the mythological island Aeolia, whose conservation was entrusted to Aeolus by Zeus. Nowadays, these islands are known as “the seven sisters” and are UNESCO’s world heritage. UNESCO protects all the extraordinary volcanic phenomena, breathtaking views, red sunsets, lovely coves, crystal waters, paths, and underwater attractions on these islands. They are the gems of this volcanic area, which is very close to the north-eastern coast of Sicily.
Sailing in this stretch of the Mediterranean Sea isn’t quite simple. Still, it is worth the challenge, as you will travel back in time and discover stunning places and landscapes. Here, elements – fire, water, earth and air –magically intertwine and become one thing: the Aeolian archipelago.
What to expect?
Despite the legend, the wind is never strong in summer. On the contrary, these islands are generally touched by a gentle breeze. So, you can follow your route without wondering whether you should change it. Before you leave, however, you should take note of other anchoring spots, preferably sheltered from wind and waves. This way, you’ll be safer, and life on board will be more enjoyable and comfortable.
You can circumnavigate the archipelago anticlockwise by following a route long 140 miles from the northeastern coast of Sicily – Capo d’Orlando, precisely – to the nearby island of Vulcano. Once you set sail and leave the strong sulphur smell of the fumaroles called “solfatare” behind, which are typical of this island, you can head to Lipari, the biggest island in the Aeolian archipelago. Then you go ahead towards Panarea, the islands of fun, and Stromboli, where you can stop to enjoy a unique night show. Afterwards, you can resume the journey towards the centre of the archipelago. You can stop in green Salina here and then dive into the tranquil Filicudi. If you still have the time, you can explore the wildest of the Aeolian islands – Alicudi. On your way back, you can stop again in Lipari to explore its wonderful eastern coast and then enjoy the heavenly corners of Vulcano that you haven’t visited yet.
This itinerary was written by Fabio Leporini. Fabio has merged his great passion for sailing with editorial skills and, as a result, he published a book full of handy tips and recommendations for any sailor. If you are fluent in Italian, you may check his book out here.
Suggested itinerary
Vulcano-Lipari-Panarea-Stromboli-Salina-Filicudi-Lipari-Vulcano
Day 1: Vulcano – Sailing route: Capo d’Orlando-Vulcano (around 22 nm)
Day 2: Lipari – Sailing route: Vulcano-Lipari (around 7.7 nm)
Day 3: Panarea/Stromboli – Sailing route: Lipari-Panarea-Stromboli (around 25.8 nm)
Day 4: Salina – Sailing route: Stromboli-Salina (around 24 nm)
Day 5: Salina/Filicudi – Sailing route: Salina-Filicudi (around 15.4 nm)
Day 6: Lipari/Vulcano – Sailing route: Filicudi-Lipari-Vulcano (around 28 nm)
Day 7: Capo d’Orlando – Sailing route: Vulcano-Capo d’Orlando (around 17 nm)
Nautical miles in total: around 140 nm
We used the Navionics app to calculate distances and set the following parameters: length - 15 m; draught - 2.5 m; average speed - 6 knots.
Sailing time: around 23 h
THINGS TO KNOW
Sea bottoms
As these islands originated from volcanos, you should be careful where to drop the anchor, especially in Stromboli and Alicudi. Here, sea bottoms are quite deep, and anchoring may be difficult. However, there are some inlets where you can anchor and relax.
Beware the winds
The wind can change a lot in inlets, so you have to carefully monitor the weather forecast and be ready to find shelter in case the wind changes direction.
Tips to sailors
Before you set sail, but also during the journey, it is a good practice to check the ordinances on the website of Guardia Costiera, mainly for safety reasons.
Day 1: VULCANO
From east to west
After you sail for 16 nautical miles and anchor near the picturesque Gelso lighthouse overlooking Cannitello beach, you can take the first dip in these waters to get into the Aeolian atmosphere. After some relaxation, you can go back along the eastern coast and reach one of the most welcoming inlets: Levante bay. Here, after anchoring in front of Acque calde beach, you can wait for the sun to go down a bit, get to the land, and climb up to Gran Cratere to admire the stunning view from this corner of paradise.
Before the sun sets, go back to your boat and peacefully sail through Bocche di Vulcano. It's a stretch of sea, no longer than a mile, which separates Vulcano from Lipari. Enjoy the beautiful sunset on the massive Lipari stacks. These huge rocks stand out near Ponente bay, one of the most beautiful corners of the Aeolian Islands. From these peaceful and tranquil waters – which you shouldn’t miss out on – you can admire the night falling and then spend some time anchored in the moonlight. Here you will be safe, as the sea bottom is shallow and sandy. The village of Vulcano overlooks the two bays, where there is a warm mud lake used for thermal baths.
Gran Cratere della Fossa
This is probably the most extraordinary and picturesque place in Vulcano. It is surrounded by fumaroles and bright yellow sulphurous stones and offers a breathtaking view of the archipelago.
DAY 2: LIPARI
The elder sister
Lipari, the biggest of Aeolian islands, is separated from Vulcano only by Bocche. After less than three miles of sailing, you can easily reach it and admire the large walls of its castle, which dates back to the 16th century. These walls also enclose the massive San Bartolomeo Cathedral, which overhangs the sea. The village of Lipari – and its beauty – is visible from the crag which separates Marina Corta and Marina Lunga. Further north is located the biggest and most sheltered port on the archipelago: porto Pignataro.
Here you can anchor, go ashore and visit Lipari and its countless alleys. Alternatively, you can anchor in Capo Rosso – it offers two anchorages, one north and one south. Not far from here, you can find the most important attraction of the island: the Pumice stone white mountain, which is touched by the sea and used to be a mine until some years ago. Thanks to this stone, the landscape looks stunning. This former mine is one of the most scenic stretches of the coast, with a special white beach and Caribbean-like waters. This lovely part of the coast ends with Punta Castagna, the perfect place for snorkelling enthusiasts, and Spiaggia del Gabbiano, which you shouldn’t miss out on either.
A view of the stacks
From Belvedere dei Quattrocchi, the most panoramic and charming spot on the whole island, you can admire the stacks and the island of Vulcano.
DAY 3: PANAREA AND STROMBOLI
Living the nightlife…
Panarea is the tiniest island in the Aeolian archipelago, but also the liveliest and probably the best place to anchor. From Lipari, you can reach the most beautiful inlet of Panarea in less than two hours: Cala Junco. If you go up to the crag and walk along the path, you can admire the prehistoric village. If you wish to use a dinghy or a SUP, you can go to the next bay, Cala degli Zimmari, which is stunning too, and also has a sandy sea bottom that allows you to anchor safely. In the surroundings, there is also a buoy field. You can find two other buoy fields (one north and one south) near San Pietro, a residential area and port. You can also anchor beyond the buoy fields.
Prehistoric villages
Capo Milazzese is home to a unique place: a prehistoric village dating back to the Bronze Age (14th century BC), accessible from Cala degli Zimmari.
Another interesting place where you can take a dip (and you shouldn't miss) is the stretch of shallow waters (surrounded by islets and rocks nearby Panarea) between Bottaro and Lisca Bianca. Don’t forget to bring your diving mask, as nature is very rich underwater. In this area, there are typical fumaroles, and you can often see gas bubbles going up to the water surface. In fact, the Terra Fumante hydrothermal system between Panarea and Basiluzzo consists of 200 volcanic vents.
You cannot miss out on Raya if you wish to touch the ground. In this historical and famous restaurant, you can spend some time listening to music and drinking on its beautiful terrace and enjoying the stunning view of Dattilo, as well as Stromboli puffing in the distance (you can reach it in less than two hours of sailing).
… and the beauty of Sciara del Fuoco
Right after sunset, the volcano offers a unique natural experience that you shouldn’t miss out on. As if by magic, the crater lights up in red. This is Sciara del Fuoco, a flow of lapillus pouring out from the crater and lightening the volcano’s edges.
In case you want to spend the night here, and the weather forecast is good, you can anchor in Ficogrande. Alternatively, you can reserve a berth in the buoy field.
Hiking in Stromboli
If you wish to walk and admire the views around the volcano, you can spend less time in Panarea. You can reach an altitude of 400 metres and you should start around 2 hours before sunset. You can admire the volcano’s explosions and the amazing sunset on beautiful Sciara del Fuoco, just in front of the active craters.
DAY 4: SALINA
The tiny Aeolian gem
Once you leave Stromboli, you can head to cosy Salina, whose atmosphere isn’t as buzzing as Panarea’s. Even so, there is still life in the Piazza Santa Marina and in the nearby alleys that lead to the hilltop and along the coastline.
It is around twenty miles away. Once you leave Stromboli, with Strombolicchio and its lighthouse on your right, you can sail towards the marvellous bay of Santa Marina (south of the port). Here, you can anchor in front of the beautiful cliff. The road to Lingua on the cliff is a destination well-known for its granita and typical Aeolian dish: pane cunzato (stuffed bread).
To go to Lingua, you can choose the dinghy, a berth in the marina or, if you are lucky enough to find an available spot in the commercial pier next to the quay for hydrofoils, where berthing is possible with an anchor. However, the waves of the arriving hydrofoils are annoying during the day.
Once you go ashore, you can walk through the alleys in the city centre and pass in central and lovely piazza Santa Marina, overlooked by a stunning little church with the same name, where you will smell the scent and the atmosphere of the island all along with the buzzing and welcoming pedestrian via Risorgimento.
If you want to visit the island and admire its breathtaking views, the best means of transport is the motor scooter. You can use one to go to Pollara, a destination where some scenes of the last film by Massimo Troisi, ‘Il Postino’, were shot. In the film, Pablo Neruda lived in this house.
Aeolian delicacies
Pane cunzato is a local dish made of bread and typical local products, such as capers, cucunci (caper fruit), aubergines, and dried tomatoes - true delicacy.
DAY 5°: SALINA AND FILICUDI
Films and cliffs
When you go up the coast, right before you set course westward, you pass by the spectacular Capo Faro, one of the two lighthouses on the island, where a massive cliff overhangs the sea.
When you sail along the northern coast, you can stop by the natural arch of Pollara, which is a true gem and probably the most stunning attraction on this island, with its trunk-shaped form.
Before setting a course for Filicudi, you should prepare to anchor in Pollara bay and enjoy the panorama right in front of the famous beach pictured in ‘Il Postino’. Here, you can see the wildest and pristine Aeolian islands in the distance: Filicudi and Alicudi. The best place to anchor is between Scoglio Faraone and Punta Perciato, just in front of the natural arch. Snorkelling lovers can swim nearby the stack.
Breathtaking views
Pollara beach, which is located at the foot of a steep cliff overhanging the sea, is one of the most attractive places on these islands. From here, you can admire a beautiful sunset.
Filicudi is an ideal destination to recharge and relax and can be reached in less than two hours of sailing. You can stopover in the port of Filicudi and anchor in front of the pebble beach, or you can opt for a buoy field. In any case, you will be embraced by the beautiful bay that begins from Capo Graziano.
Another buoy field is located in Pecorini Mare, nearby Blu Marino caves. On the land, you should visit the archaeological site in Capo Graziano where a village's ruins date back to the Bronze Era. From here, you can also enjoy a stunning view.
A dip into history
The archaeological site of Capo Graziano is a fascinating underwater experience you should not miss out. This place includes at least nine Greek and Roman shipwrecks. Diving is allowed only with authorized diving centres and with a second level licence.
DAYS 6°-7°: LIPARI-VULCANO-CAPO D’ORLANDO
Stacks and unmissable bays
Nothing compares to waking up in Filicudi. As you enter your last sailing day, you can set sail to cover the final miles of the journey with no rush. Before sailing for Lipari, you can set course for the western tip of Filicudi and admire the massive stack La Canna, which is over 70 metres high and stands out nearby scoglio Montenassari.
Then you can set course for Lipari, pass through the scenic bay of Punta di Levante, and anchor in the next bay, the unmissable baia delle Formiche. From here, you will enjoy a beautiful view of the nearby stacks. Afterwards, you can set sail before dusk and head to Porto di Ponente in Vulcano and admire the wonderful sunset on the stacks again. The day is almost over, thus you can indulge in a relaxing evening.
On the last cruising day, you can set sail and then land on the nearby Sicilian shores of Capo d’Orlando, after taking a last dip in the waters of splendid Ponente bay on the island of Vulcano.
This itinerary was written by Fabio Leporini. Fabio has merged his great passion for sailing with editorial skills and, as a result, he published a book full of handy tips and recommendations for any sailor. If you are fluent in Italian, you may check his book out here.
